Feature - Foundation: Shape & Technique

Article by Mazella&Palmer //Images by Jamie Harrison & Georgina Livermore // Published Friday 25 May 2012

The old saying 'knowledge is power' is the key to all academic success. The key to technical success is an in-depth knowledge of the foundation of shape and how to create that shape. Learning and understanding the core elements that can change and enhance bone structure will give you the power to develop suitable long lasting looks.

The foundation is broken down into three shapes and three techniques, each giving you the choice to open the face shape, balance the face shape or frame the face shape. They have been developed from the universal concept of design, and are the shapes you see around you in everyday life - round, square and triangle.

The three techniques are the only three techniques used throughout the hairdressing world, there are variations and different approaches but there are only three. The first is a line, commonly know as one length. This is the heaviest of the three. The second is graduation, a technique that gradually builds from a shorter length to a longer length. This can enhance a flat head shape. Finally the lightest of the three techniques is layering. This gives movement to the hair.

When mixing these three shapes and techniques together, you will develop the nine foundation haircut. The variation of a round line, square line or triangle line will give you the option to create a heavy look to suite any bone structure. The use of a round graduation, square graduation or triangle graduation, will help you enhance a head shape when you wish to create a flatter or a heavier feeling. The uses of a round layer, square layer and triangle layer will help you reduce the weight and give movement to thick or thin hair.

Visually understanding the dynamics of shape will place you on the first step to creating that perfect haircut. Once understood, you will need to choose the technique that will help you create that shape. Within all the cutting systems throughout the hairdressing industry, we all follow the same formula; whether it's name varies or the haircut starts in a different place, they all follow the same rules.

The choice of section is the starting point of the technique, the hair will follow the direction of that section. Horizontal sections will create the heaviest shape, and the more the section moves towards the vertical the lighter it will become. You must remember though, a true expert can create shape in many ways, once you can control hair, you can control hair.

Once the choice of the section is made, you will need to choose the elevation. The lower you hold the hair the heavier the shape will be, the higher you hold the hair the lighter the shape will be. If you wish to create length towards the front, pull the hair back and if you want it lighter, just lift it higher. This also works for the length towards the back, just in the opposite direction. This dynamic can be used whether you point hair, slice hair, razor it or even set hair, understanding the creation of technique and how it effects the shape will give you the tools to build external and internal harmony.

The final key is learning how to place a line to the bone structure, this will enhance the silhouette whether soft or strong. Once you unravel the bone structure's frame, you will know how to place a round line to create a softer visual effect, a square line that will leave weight towards the outline and a triangle line which draws attention to a focal point. These shapes will help you fashion a multiple of silhouettes that will work for anyone.

This knowledge is the essence to building a foundation haircut, once understood and studied all you have left to do is practice, practice, practice.