Feature - Hair Trends - Men's Spring Summer 2012

Men’s catwalk hair is centred around classic barbering, individuality and suitability unlike women’s runway hair which influences our daily decisions by decree of celebrity images or fashion magazines. The modus operandi of the menswear shows this season exposed men’s hair to be in constant flux, the men’s shows infrequently present seminal fashion moments, just transitory ideas with a few maverick moments for good measure.

With the launch of super site Mr Porter, brother site to the massively influential Net-a-Porter, menswear takes centre stage this season and men’s hair is fast becoming a serious contender in our daily workday business, Male clients are rapidly becoming more image conscious and MyHairDressers.com is here to facilitate your style choices.

Tyler Johnston, David Beckham's hairdresser and superstar session stylist tells us, “There is a shift towards classic barbering for men this season. Haircuts are crafted with modern tailoring, and outlines with attention to detail. Classic shapes with modern textures - think Army cuts, and the slick TV show Mad Men.”.

When we look at the shows he is bang on the money. At Versace the mood was vintage Gianni Versace - neat clipped hair was dressed into side parted, slightly waved quiff’s, complimenting the clothes and showcasing strong 80’s elements brought up to date with acidic suits and buckled leather. At Vuitton the hair was efficiently tailored. With designer Kim Jones steering the helm this season, the clothing had a stronger sportswear influence while rolled up trousers, knitted ties and super sandals lent the show a luxurious continental feel. The hair was a disheveled version of Versace, with robust barbering elements, tight edges and side partings still in view, the feeling was edgier and altogether more streamlined.

With edgier textures moving to the fore this season, designers presented some rather eccentric men’s hair. Mugler menswear now fronted by Nicola Formichetti (of Haus of Gaga fame) sent models down the runway with forward finger combed, mo-hawk points that defied the confines of wearable day hair and dished up a watery aesthetic. He was not unescorted in the wet look hair club as Jil Sander furnished us with combed forward super wet look hair. There was considerably more product at large, which in turn complimented the patent leather jackets and accessories. At Raf Simons and Comme des Garcons the mood of the season was also ultra wet look with centre partings this time, not always the most suitable even on the elite males of the species, they were supremely precise akin to a Brancusi bronze - perfectly flat and skull hugging. Comme des Garcons went a step further and added jaunty kiss curls. Finally at Lanvin and Gucci the hair again was forward. Stronger fringes played a big part at the Lanvin show, I may be as bold to say the shapes were monastic, with eyebrow skimming fringes not seen since the mega being that is Patrick Wolf first came on to our radars in 2007.

Longer hair was also a key player this season seen at Ann Demeulemeester, Lanvin, Dior and Margiela it was well positioned amongst the cool designers collections. Left to roam free this androgynous statement hair was neither dressed nor clipped just sincere and out there. The long hair at Lanvin was the best, commanding it’s own segment. The great thing about the Lanvin show was the diversity - long hair, crops and monastic bowls all shuffled along agreeably, leaving the clothes to shine and the individuality of each model intact. 

Ultimately that’s the narrative for guys, not the stormtrooper maxim of the women’s shows - individuality is the keynote this season.