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News - Andrew Gilbert's View
Text by Andrew Gilbert // Image by Jamie Harrison // Published Tuesday 5 April 2011
Andrew Gilbert casts his eagle eye over the Spring video shoot and gives his insiders view of the hair and the contributors performance.
I’m always super nervous the day before starting the eight day shoots, thinking "have we planned everything? Are the contributors right for the site? Will people want to watch the content? Is it relevent to today’s market?". These questions are always answered positively throughout the shoot by the contributors with their outstanding work and talent.
First up was Stacey Broughton. During our own planning meeting, Stacey was sweating at the thought of my request for a firefly and halo pure technique on head-blocks. The idea is to show all the basics on head-blocks to see the pure technique, then once you have mastered the pure technique you can then apply it to trend-led shapes. Stacey’s results are amazing - pure technical genius. The halo has the corner under the ear and the firefly is finished with a slight twist to the brush, straight out of the cutting book. Stacey - you have true talent my friend!
The second day saw Stacey working his tribute to the 'five-point' with this disconnected graduated shape and with the fringe curving effortlessly around the face of Stacey’s first model Olga. The thing I like about Stacey’s hair cutting is that he’s never afraid to try something different and just to feel free to interpret a technique in this own way. Then Charmaine Piche’s color choice perfectly balanced, breathing a hue of spirit through one side of the pointed shape to change the perspective and complement.
The third day was Perms! I wish I could erase the term perm from the world and when you see how Charmaine worked with the outline supporting shape, the mid-interior double wind and the directional set with root drag throughout the top section and parting area - your love for creating curly will be restored. Stacey added a simple horizontal graduated shape, working with the natural looking texture and amazing calculation in tension, placing the line at just the right length to give this expanded shape the right visual proportions. This is one to check out for a directional change in hair and is a super trend at the minute.
Graham Oglesby, from Stockport College, returned to the studio on the fourth and fifth day of the shoot. I have always enjoyed watching Graham cut hair ever since we worked together in Sassoons in the early 1990s. He has a natural but technical approach. MyHairDressers.com is developing a student section, starting with blowdrying. Blowdrying is a way of giving a student an understanding of the build up of a shape from the perimeter hairline. Working closely with the hair, but without cutting, the student quickly gains an understanding of the hair - watching and controlling of growth patterns and client suitability. It’s probably the best way to achieve strength in dexterity in the fingers and arms, along with setting and perming.
We also managed to film four NVQ Level 2 and 3 haircuts, Graham worked so hard and the simplicity of the shapes were great with the colours from Tracey Sajno looking super cool as well.
We were joined on the sixth day for some barbering from a person that’s been in the industry for 27 years, who’s always moving on and developing her craft with the air of now and a feeling of trend - Sarah Astley.
We started with a freehand scissor-over-comb, but there is no comb used, so it cant be! But it’s the only way to describe the way Sarah worked. This technique can only be used on the correct hair type, but the sheer control of the blades and feeling of blend is legendary!
We have been inundated with requests for more session hairdressing on the site, so I decided to do two days of dressed hair for days seven and eight. In the past we have filmed some of the more basic techniques, so the idea here was to give a free reign to the artist - no boundaries. Being such a control freak running the shoot like this was hard for me!
As an added extra I was interested in doing some mood movies with the finished results, and boy did Callam Warrington and John Vial push the ideas! With extreme silhouettes and over-sized shapes lending a surrealist edge to vintage couture. Superb.
I hope you are as fueled by this selection of talent as much as I have been, and enjoy the tutorials we have coming up this Spring!
Andrew Gilbert casts his eagle eye over the Spring video shoot and gives his insiders view of the hair and the contributors performance.
I’m always super nervous the day before starting the eight day shoots, thinking "have we planned everything? Are the contributors right for the site? Will people want to watch the content? Is it relevent to today’s market?". These questions are always answered positively throughout the shoot by the contributors with their outstanding work and talent.
First up was Stacey Broughton. During our own planning meeting, Stacey was sweating at the thought of my request for a firefly and halo pure technique on head-blocks. The idea is to show all the basics on head-blocks to see the pure technique, then once you have mastered the pure technique you can then apply it to trend-led shapes. Stacey’s results are amazing - pure technical genius. The halo has the corner under the ear and the firefly is finished with a slight twist to the brush, straight out of the cutting book. Stacey - you have true talent my friend!
The second day saw Stacey working his tribute to the 'five-point' with this disconnected graduated shape and with the fringe curving effortlessly around the face of Stacey’s first model Olga. The thing I like about Stacey’s hair cutting is that he’s never afraid to try something different and just to feel free to interpret a technique in this own way. Then Charmaine Piche’s color choice perfectly balanced, breathing a hue of spirit through one side of the pointed shape to change the perspective and complement.
The third day was Perms! I wish I could erase the term perm from the world and when you see how Charmaine worked with the outline supporting shape, the mid-interior double wind and the directional set with root drag throughout the top section and parting area - your love for creating curly will be restored. Stacey added a simple horizontal graduated shape, working with the natural looking texture and amazing calculation in tension, placing the line at just the right length to give this expanded shape the right visual proportions. This is one to check out for a directional change in hair and is a super trend at the minute.
Graham Oglesby, from Stockport College, returned to the studio on the fourth and fifth day of the shoot. I have always enjoyed watching Graham cut hair ever since we worked together in Sassoons in the early 1990s. He has a natural but technical approach. MyHairDressers.com is developing a student section, starting with blowdrying. Blowdrying is a way of giving a student an understanding of the build up of a shape from the perimeter hairline. Working closely with the hair, but without cutting, the student quickly gains an understanding of the hair - watching and controlling of growth patterns and client suitability. It’s probably the best way to achieve strength in dexterity in the fingers and arms, along with setting and perming.
We also managed to film four NVQ Level 2 and 3 haircuts, Graham worked so hard and the simplicity of the shapes were great with the colours from Tracey Sajno looking super cool as well.
We were joined on the sixth day for some barbering from a person that’s been in the industry for 27 years, who’s always moving on and developing her craft with the air of now and a feeling of trend - Sarah Astley.
We started with a freehand scissor-over-comb, but there is no comb used, so it cant be! But it’s the only way to describe the way Sarah worked. This technique can only be used on the correct hair type, but the sheer control of the blades and feeling of blend is legendary!
We have been inundated with requests for more session hairdressing on the site, so I decided to do two days of dressed hair for days seven and eight. In the past we have filmed some of the more basic techniques, so the idea here was to give a free reign to the artist - no boundaries. Being such a control freak running the shoot like this was hard for me!
As an added extra I was interested in doing some mood movies with the finished results, and boy did Callam Warrington and John Vial push the ideas! With extreme silhouettes and over-sized shapes lending a surrealist edge to vintage couture. Superb.
I hope you are as fueled by this selection of talent as much as I have been, and enjoy the tutorials we have coming up this Spring!
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May 2012
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